RIO DE JANEIRO

Pierce

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As you may be able to tell from my avatar, I've long been a fan of the expressive modernism of Roberto Burle Marx, Oscar Niemeyer, Lucio Costa, and their ilk. Next week my wife and I head off for 10 days in Rio, and am openly soliciting any suggestions you may have for our all-too-brief visit to summertime land.... restaurants, shopping, architecture, etc. We know the must-sees and have our guidebooks but any insight to things we may otherwise miss, please let us know, this is truly a once- or twice in a lifetime trip and want to maximize our experience.
 
Very jealous (in spite of my own impending SoCal vacation).

Can't wait to see the images you'll return with.
 
If I were going, I'd want to tour a favela ... but you'd probably need bodyguards.

Edit: turns out they have favela tours aplenty.
 
If I were going, I'd want to tour a favela ... but you'd probably need bodyguards.

Edit: turns out they have favela tours aplenty.

We've made arrangements to have our own personal time as well to wander (we were both solitary travelers for awhile, this is our first dual trip), but the one concession i've made to my wife is that I will not, under any circumstances, wander into a favela--tour guide or no.

So I will have to save that for maybe that second-in-a-lifetime trip.

I should've done that Favelas/Sao Paolo studio in grad school!
 
I too am jealous. My wife and I honeymooned there almost a decade ago. We spent most of our time in areas well-covered by decent guidebooks, but found our few journeys out of the main tourist zones (Botafogo, Niteroi) to be great ways to see the more typical Rio. Our favorite places were Santa Teresa (accessed by the old trolley car), and the narrow streets between the downtown commercial district and Campo de Santana. We stayed in Ipanema and Gloria. I'd second ablarc's recommendation to take a favela tour (we went to Rocinha), but I'd recommend trying to break away from the group (if only for a few minutes) to check out some shops/alleys that aren't part of the regular itinerary.

One of the other highlights for our trip not available to you--New Year's Eve on Copacabana!

I'd be curious to know how the subway extension is working (it stopped at arcoverde when we were there).

EDIT: Posted before I saw the no-favelas deal.
 
Apparently the gang wars in the favelas sometimes spill onto and even close down the main highway between the city and their airport, so you might not miss all the action.

BTW, the crime isn't limited to the slums. I've heard there are very few places to safely stroll at night. Even cars get jacked a lot in daylight.
 
10 days in rio? Hm, perhaps once you're day you might want to wander a bit. It's a nice city, but not my favorite at all.

Salvador to the north was more enjoyable to me.
 
I guess I stretched it a bit in my mind: it was actually 8 days/7 night, which was whittled down to 7 days/6 nights thanks to a buttload of snow and wind at JFK the day we were supposed to leave. Even had it been 10 days I wouldn't be likely to do try a country or even a region in 10 days, my backpacking days are over. I find you can't possibly experience a city in 3 or 4 days, it takes a week minimum just to scratch the surface. You need space to wander aimlessly and sit still, to chew properly and actually taste each bite; serendipity finds you better when you aren't trying to cram 4 or 5 things into a day.

At any rate, it was a fantastic trip. Lo and behold, within hours of arriving, in fact on the bus ride from the airport, the sight of the favelas took hold of the wife's imagination and it was she pulling me into them (via a tour, thankfully). It rained about half the days, but that was the entire reason we wanted a beach vacation ensconced in a city-- for "other stuff". I will post later photos and captions. In brief summary, we of course surveyed most of the "safe" neighborhoods, got personal guided tours of some others (walking and integrated to the extent possible, ie. not as voyeurs), toured Burle Marx's house and estate, visited Oscar Niemeyer's house from the 50s, and lucked into hiring an art history professor to take us into several un-public places in some amazing modern buildings (eg. the Brazil Health and Education Minister's personal rooftop garden at the famous building by Niemeyer/Costa/Corbusier/et al). And more caipirinhas, lounging, ogling and downright staring than I care to admit.
 

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