From A to B with Z's
Amtrak, in nod to nostalgia, brings back sleeper car
By Michael Levenson, Globe Staff | April 3, 2009
Just the words sleeper car are enough to conjure images of train travel at its most romantic, when a trip on the rails meant rubbing elbows with men in fedoras, young adventurers with valises, and perfectly tailored women in the club car, sipping Manhattans.
For decades, riders on the Boston-to-Chicago line, known as the Lake Shore Limited, could at least look forward to the sleeper car, if not the cast of characters straight out of old Hollywood.
And then, in 2004, Amtrak quietly scrapped the sleeper car from Boston, blaming maintenance problems. Now, after an outcry from riders tired of enduring the 23-hour trip in a seat, the sleeper car is making a comeback. Amtrak hopes the cars, which return tomorrow, will raise $2 million annually for the financially struggling rail network by appealing to customers who see an overnight train as a respite from the hassles of air travel.
"We're going after a different market than those people who might fly," said Brian Rosenwald, Amtrak's chief of product management. "We are catering to a leisure market where people might be interested in the advantages of train travel, which would include a day away from day-to-day aggravation, a chance to see the countryside, and enjoy freshly prepared meals - kind of a minicruise concept on land, rather than on sea."
The simple luxury will sharply increase the cost of a trip to Chicago. A two-bed "roomette" (with three meals, turn-down service, coffee, newspaper and bottled water) can be booked for $184 to $431, while both occupants would also need their own coach-class tickets, which range from $83 to $163. Tickets, like those for an airline, will cost more on peak travel days and when they are booked late.
Ultimately, Amtrak is betting it will find enough passengers like Mary and Daniel Day, retirees from Newburgh, Maine, who have taken many cross-country trains and said the cost of a sleeper car is well worth the comfort of a good night's rest.
"On a long trip like that, especially at our age, you want to stretch out," said Mary Day, a 71-year-old retired hospital worker who was boarding the Boston-to-Chicago train at South Station on Tuesday, en route to her husband's bowling tournament in Las Vegas.
In any case, they prefer train travel to flying.
"You can see more," Mary Day said. "It's like being on a water cruise without all that water."
Plus, said Daniel Day, a retired forest ranger, "The airlines have become such a hassle now. It's really frustrating."
Amtrak officials said the sleeper cars were long a popular option on the Lake Shore Limited until the pipes started freezing and the toilets stopped working in the harsh winters, a persistent problem that finally led them to cancel the service in November 2004. Boston became the only major city on Amtrak's route without sleeper-car service.
Passengers who still wanted a bed were given the option of switching to a sleeper car in Albany, but the hassle of changing cars with heavy bags hours into the journey hardly made it worthwhile.
"We heard from many customers who were vocal and unhappy about it," Rosenwald said.
The decision to bring back sleeper cars is part of a broader campaign to attract riders at a time when overnight train travel has surged 7 percent between October and March, compared with the same period in 2007 and 2008. Officials attribute the increase to riders who fled high gas prices last summer, then stuck with the train because they liked it. The Boston-to-Chicago line, which saw a 1.9 percent increase during the period, is one of six trains nationwide targeted for upgrades.
Not only will the Lake Shore Limited receive sleeper cars with newly insulated plumbing, officials are vowing to improve its 75 percent on-time performance rate between October and March - which Rosenwald described as "not great" but "dramatically improved" from a 30 percent rate during the same period in 2007 and 2008.
The food is also slated for improvement. Because of a shortage of full-service dining cars, the Boston-to-Chicago train currently has small dining cars, dubbed Diner Lites, which have not won rave reviews.
"I give Diner Lite service a D for ambiance and a C for food quality," one traveler wrote on the blog of the National Association of Railroad Passengers after sampling the train's "very salty" salmon fillet, "sub-par" Southwestern omelet, and "surprisingly crunchy" spring rolls.
Ross B. Capon, president of the association, which advocates for better rail service, said Amtrak is heading in the right direction by bringing back sleeper cars and seeking to improve amenities. "We highly praise Amtrak for this move," he said.
"There was a certain amount of internal resistance, and it took some heavy lifting by some people inside Amtrak who believed this was important," Capon said. "It was an argument being made internally that they could raise revenue if they improved service. What a concept."
Of course, not everyone will take advantage of the sleeper cars. Matt Devlin, a 34-year-old with a bushy beard who was boarding the Boston-to-Chicago line en route to his home in Los Angeles, said that while he liked the idea of a bed, he saw no need for one on his 90-hour train trip.
"I'm just bumming it," Devlin said, tapping his battered green rucksack at South Station. "I've got some Handi Wipes and fresh skivvies."
Michael Levenson can be reached at
mlevenson@globe.com.