the extreme angle of 'ESE' in the swell explains the not so overwhelming size..... but the north winds were favorable for Long Island and Rhode Island.
That's why i gave up on surfing this area for a decade of barrels in Mainland Mex.....
lots of fond memories of Pascuales.....
the bottom video is Patoles, Dimas Sinaloa..... about 1 mile from an armed Sinaloa Cartel stronghold, complete with armed guerrillas, machine guns..... i once got into a jalapeno pepper eating contest with this bloke in the village one Saturday night.
i lost (don't ever do this).
*i wear a spring suit even in 84~86F water to avoid the dreaded kill shot blue bottle sting.....
Must see 'Uluwatu' footage on what they're callin' one of the biggest days evaar..... btw, the surf crew that discovered this spot back in the early 70's showed the world where the best waves are, then they dug in and eventually were caught up in a big, international drug sting..... someone turned the story into a docu-drama/surf movie hybrid thing.
possibly the most insane "paddle in" wave i've ever seen.
video doesn't say where it is..... but it's an outer reef called "Revelation...."
a few hundred yards off to the side of 3rd Reef Pipeline outside Rockpile.....
Epic surf now at Hampton and Plum Island.... Maine, etc.....
Guys texting way overhead barrels spitting over Plum Island's sandbars, and still comfortable waters......
i got a bunch of insane photos coming from the the early fall 2019 surf season......
A few shots of world class surf that occasionally visits the area, seldom captured on film. stay tuned.
below,
Flying into Logan to catch some waves a few winters ago.....
1st feature is the north end of Long Sands Beach, York, Maine.
2nd spot is Monahan's Dock, Narragansett, Rhode Island showing how fun they can get.